![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhc-nox_nPjAMGU5HI8kxDcOytIJr2i6F0jPkv_-N8XTDmMysxnhqVnP4wEwEElYs30SGXy_kQ-rRPmLGTJ30eVBVnfs5uxtq7hu-F6UMczES2MrSAgnYbM5M8KRJ8sTZ8fSD7Cdw/s400/redmug.jpg)
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJQ-agDzwklYEaWPZeJuffy_RO6Vmq-1BIzO2Kb_R-vUfUEZA6rHtkn5ACWBydRWSFN3gBZnjQhSmM74Xfz2cSo6k-kEDwx7i_LdHMJrDa4YRLk6AO1yZSPLdMEixje89GTn4WGw/s400/rearbigswirlpot.jpg)
I made this pot a coupla years ago, posted on clayart at the time that I got red from wfl brown by refiring to ^04. The red areas on this pot are just wfl brown, and then I dipped over the rim with clear liner, also in "the book"- the overlapping of the 2 glazes gives alot of color, purple included.
However, I think that it has to do with the thickness of the wfl brown, and the cooling, or holding somewhere in the 1800 degree neighborhood. The reason I say this is because I have refired wfl brown cups in my bisque kiln, and they come out red, for the most part- but, where the glaze is on thick enough to run slightly, I get hints of purple- as in the mug at top- sorry, not a great pic.
I have not been able to repeat this with any regularity, either. I can always get red on refire, but not purple- or, if I get purple, it blisters because the glaze is on too thickly.
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